Knit Cut and Sew with Amazing Results

Knit cut and sew has been a way of making garments over may years. For me it is going to be a way to knit up “fabric” quickly and create items from paper patterns instead of knitting patterns. This does not mean to say I won’t be using machine knitting patterns anymore. I have bought a job lot of knitting machine wool of the great Ebay store, and it is not 4 ply which I usually use. It is a lot of different kinds of wool on cones. This has made me look at my options. If this is something you want to try then please carry on reading.

Table of Contents

Why choose to try the knit cut and sew method?

The wool is a different ply from your normal pattern wool. This means you need to knit a swatch sample and work the pattern out again to the new thickness yarn.
Time to knit, decrease or increase, and shape thin wool, requires you to pay attention to your rows.
A different technique of creating can offer new options.

How much waste is there when you knit cut and sew a panel?

Very little but there is more waste than shaping as you knit. On making this cardigan I wasted knit fabric cutting around the neck and armholes and a thin strip shaping the sleeves. Well worth it as I could just enjoy knitting the panel.

Working out the size of panel you need to knit for the knit cut and sew garments.

pattern for knit cut and sew — Pattern for knit cut and sew

This is relatively easy. Knit a sample using the yarn/wool you want to use.
Count the rows and stitches to 5cm. So you have 5cm equals 15stitches and 5 cm equals 10 rows. I then multiply it all by 2 so it is now for 10cm. The above example would now be 10cm = 30sitches, 10cm= 30 rows.
Now you need to use the widest part of each panel as a guide for casting on. For example the width of a front and back panel would be around the bust/ chest area, or around the tummy area. If you are 134 cms around the widest upper body (this includes tummy area). Then you would divide that measurement into how wide is the back from side to side, and how wide is the front from side to side. This can not just be divided into half as some people have large girths and others large chests.
The back panel is straight forward if the back from side to side is 58cms then you will knit your panel approx 60cms wide. Knowing how many stitches that will be, we use the sample swatch measurements to work it out. 60cm divided by 10cm multiply by 30 stitches = 180 stitches, that gives you 1 cm extra on each side. Repeat this for the front sections. If you are knitting a cardigan the front measurement would be 134cm(overall) – 58cm (Back) divided by 2( front panels) = 38cm per front panel. round it off to 40cm. Work out the amount of stitches needed to cast on as for the back. 40cm divided by 10cm multiply by 30 stitches = 120 stitches per panel.
How to know how long you need to knit the panels. Measure from where you want the garment to start to the top of your shoulder. Example from waist to shoulder over the widest part. the front could be longer than back in some cases. If the measurement is 60cm, then work out how many rows you need to knit as follows. 60cm divided by 10cm multiply by 30rows = 180 rows. Add on 10 rows of waste yarn.

Can you knit a patterned stitch and use the knit cut and sew method?

Yes, knit cut and sew patterned panels just take longer to knit but they steam just as well. The knit, cut and sew method has been used commercially for years. It just takes practise to know what works best for you. Always do a sample swatch of the pattern and get the row and stitch count before knitting your panel.

How do you stop the stitches from unraveling when you use the knit cut and sew method?

The process I used was very simple and logical. When you are ending the length you require on a panel, end by knitting at least 10 rows with waste yarn. Look at this blog on steaming knits.

LIGHT STEAM NOT IRONING!!

Steam the panel you have just knitted lightly pressing all the edges down. Do not steam the ribbing only the knit.
Leave the panels overnight to go to a natural size, after all with knitting on the machine I used weights.
Cut the tails of yarn eads shorter so they do not catch on things when you work with them. I managed to unravel several rows by leaving the yarn tails very long and catching them on other pieces as I worked.
Before you lay your intended patten pieces onto the fabric give it one more light steam pressing all edges flat. Leave to cool.

What patterns do you use for cutting out your garment.

I sew a lot so I have a good collection of sewing patterns to choose from. I chose a loose fitting pattern as I need to wear my cardigan over other items of clothing and don’t want a tight body hugging fit. The pattern I chose is actually sleep wear. The t- shirt is designed for a jersey fabric so it works nicely for me for a knit cut and sew cardi. There are plenty of similar patterns available. You can also just use paper and copy a jumper you already have. If you are going to do this, make sure you use it as your measurement guide for knitting up your panels.

How do I cut without it all coming undone?

To prevent all the panels from falling to pieces when I cut the pattern pieces out.
I marked out the pattern pieces first using soap to mark the knitted piece.
Then taking care I used a zig zag stitch on my sewing machine approx length 3.5 by width 3.5. I used the same colour thread as the knit and sewed on all the pattern piece lines.
I then cut out the pattern piece about 5mm -1cm away from the lines I have just sewn with a zig zag stitch.

What needle and stitch to use when sewing it together.

I used a stretch needle with matching thread. The seams I sewed up using a straight stitch set at length 3. The outer edges i once again used a zig zag but set at width 4 and length 4. I could use an overlocker if I had the correct colour thread.

Did the fabric stretch when sewing it together?

The secret of knit cut and sew is steaming, then sewing an outline stitch to stop things coming apart. This outline stitch also prevent you from stretching the fabric where you are sewing. However, if you sew inside the outline stitching you can stretch the panel. I used a bit of tape on the shoulders to stop them from stretching when putting the cardigan on.

Does this knitted fabric behave like the knit fabrics you buy in the shop?

Yes and no, jersey knit and even the ribbed knit fabric you can purchase has been finished in a way that makes it fray less and not fall apart. The thicker proper knit fabric is more like your home knit cut and sew fabric. You need to take care and you need to sew the outline before just cutting it out.

How do you get to finish off neck lines and open fronts.

Knit cut and sew method needs you to knit seperate pieces of ribbing to finish off your necklines and cardigan fronts. The only open front that you do not have to knit a rib for is a zipped front. The neck area can have a hood sewn on and so no ribbing required. Ordinary crew necklines you knit a rob casting on maximum stitches and knit to double height so it can be folded over. Foe v neck and cardigan knit a long rib of about 8 stitches wide. A normal length cardigan requires either two sections of rib sewn together to make one long one or measure to see how many rows you would need to knit.